Sapo National Park

There is only one national park in Liberia. Sapo National Park. Some friends and I had the great opportunity to explore it. Sapo is the second largest primitive rain forest in West Africa. We had to get special permission from the forestry department of Liberia to even visit.

Our adventure began last Friday afternoon as we headed out from Monrovia with our packs, drinking water and enough food to get us through 4 days of the unknown. We found a camping spot on the beach in a town about 3 hours away. We slept right on the beach surrounded by sounds of the ocean waves and underneath a million stars. Amazing! We woke up before dawn and were sipping a delicious camp mocha when we spotted 2 dolphins playing off the coast and enjoyed watching them for a few minutes before loading up the car for the estimated 7 more hours drive to Sapo.

After several hours on the road we finally found a sign that gave us hope! Sapo was near. The roads along the way were bumpy at times and some of the bridges questionable but we made it without any problems. As we arrived in the village where the park headquarters is located, we were greeted by a town full of naked children (which I have a great pic of but don't think it is appropriate to post on a blog, watch for it in National Geographic). The park warden was expecting us and after a short inservice about what to expect in the park and meeting our guides, Alfonzo and Junior, we were introduced to the village chief and town elders. It felt so African, sitting in a Palava hut and being welcomed by the village chief just prior to setting out on a big wilderness adventure. Our departure was somewhat delayed by a brief rain storm, but that seemed appropriate, heading into the rain forest and all.

(Camp Michael.)

We hiked about a hour and a half to get to the place where we set up camp. After about 45minutes we reached the river and had to be carried across in shifts by a canoe. By the time we reached and set up camp we had just enough time to cook dinner and filter enough drinking water out of the creek before it got dark. That night we took it easy, enjoyed the campfire and some great conversations before heading to bed.

(Upacca tree- run here if you see an elephant.)

We started our big day of hiking early Sunday morning. The forest actually reminded me a lot of home, except it was warmer (much more humid) and there were fewer (ok, none) pine trees. But overall I felt very at home there. All the lush green and foliage on the ground was comforting. Our guides were great, they pointed out trees and tracks of animals and attempted to teach us the call of the dieger (some deer-like animal). We did not actually see any great forest animals, but we did see proof of them. We saw a lot of elephant tracks, I still have a hard time picturing them living in the dense forest, but their foot prints were everywhere, often the trail we were following. We were told that we could use the Upacca tree (pic above) to protect us from an elephant if need be. We also saw the tracks of the Bonga, some huge cow like animal that as the guides described is bigger than our tent and taller than me. ah! There was also some hippo droppings (the very rare pygmy hippo lives in that area), I really wish we could have seen the real thing.

(Along the trail.)

About 5 hours into our day hike we came to the river. After that long of trekking and sweating through the forest it did not take long for us to dive in and enjoy the refreshment. Crocodiles? Um, don't worry about what you don't see, right?

(Picture break. That is a pretty good looking group after how many hours of trekking through the forest?)

We had been told that there were no trails throughout the park and the guys has come prepared with cutlasses (machetes) to blaze our own trail. There were trails. but very primitive and there was a lot of chopping of overgrowth along the way. We also had to cross countless small rivers and creeks, sometimes with only a few branches to use as a bridge. It got iffy a couple of times but we all made it without an unwanted plunge.

(There is no way to capture all the beauty.)

We arrived back at camp after 8 crazy hours of tromping through the park. We did not see another person the entire time. After a wash in the creek and dinner (which I literally fell asleep while making) we all hunkered under the tarp as the evening rain storm hit. It was a great storm, reminded me of camping in WA (it is not a good camping trip without a good rain storm, right?). I think the evening gathered under the tarp in the rain was actually one of my favorite parts of the weekend. But it was not for long, by 8:30 we were all asleep.

(I told you, I really fell asleep while fixing dinner, thanks Ashley for capturing it for the world to see.)

We packed up early the next morning and hiked back to the park headquarters where the warden and some freshly fried plantains (yum!) were waiting for us. We did not linger too long before loading up the car and heading out because we still had the 11 hour drive home.

(We made it! Everyone at the finish line. Junior, Andrew, Solo, Laura, Alfonzo, John, Ashley and I.)

So is 22 hours driving worth 11 hours hiking through the Liberian rain forest? Definitely! It was an amazing and beautiful experience, shared with great friends in God's creation. It really does not get any better than that.

PS- If you are interested in a different, more technical version of the weekend (including GPS positioning) check out John's blog at www.johnetherton.com.

The New Blue Chair.

A brand new BLUE wheelchair!

Can a boy ask for anything else?

Buster is 9 years old and has the most contagious smile. He is not able to use his legs due to contractions, weakness and underdevelopment. Last December he received a new customized walker from Monrovia Rehab Center (MRC). I was privileged to carry him back for a check up last week. The staff at MRC was happy to see his progress. Buster has been practicing walking with his walker and can get around fairly well. However, he often tires out and requires a wheelchair to maneuver some of the spaces around the orphanage home. The wheelchair that he had been using for years was too old, too big and recently both of the front wheels broke. This left Buster isolated and relying on the other kids at the home to help him get around. What a blessing that MRC had just the right "Buster sized" chair for him. He couldn't stop smiling as he tried out his new wheels. Buster was greeted by excited cheers from the other children as he wheeled around the corner at the orphanage in his new blue chair.

Watch out Liberia, there is no stopping him now!

Teeth and Feet

Last week I was able to bring my new friend (and dental hygienist) Brenda to visit 2 homes and check out the kiddos teeth. We were able to examine over 50 kids teeth. About 12 have urgent things that need to be taken care of- large cavities, teeth that need to be extracted or extreme cleaning. Many of the others need a routine cleaning. Our next project is going to be to get them all into the clinic. This Friday the first group will go and the rest will follow over the next few weeks. Most of these children don't have access to proper tooth brushing supplies and have never seen a dentist. For the most part they enjoyed their check ups, but a few needed coaxing.

A few days later Ashley and I delivered and fit all the kids at Childcare Foundation with new shoes and socks.

Joshua and Beyen showing off their new shoes.

Food is for life.

Over the last few weeks, I have been going through a book with the kids at a few of our orphanage homes. It is a book about food and how our bodies use and process it. It has bright pictures and funny words to describe how the body works and make it more interesting for the children. The first page talks about why we need food. I asked the children "What is food for?" Almost instantly one boy exclaimed "For life!" I was expecting an answer like, "for energy" or "to grow strong." But this boy hit the true point. In Liberia food is life. And I realized that despite all we try to do for them, these kids often do not know where their next meal is coming from. As much as they love it when their ORR aunties and uncles visit, they will drop everything when the food is served and nothing will distract them from it. Food is not a luxury as we often treat it, it is a necessity. Food is for life. I don't think these kids need me to teach them anything about food, they are teaching me.

Barvor's eyes.

Barvor is 7 years old. He and his younger sister, Korpu, were brought to one of our orphanage homes because their parents could not care for them anymore. Barvor's mother is blind and his father has mental health issues. Last year when ORR recognized that Barvor was having trouble with his eyes he was taken to a local eye clinic. He was diagnosed with glaucoma, high pressure in the eyes. There is no cure for glaucoma, but it can be treated with medication. If left untreated the high pressure in the eye will cause permanent damage and blindness. A few weeks ago I carried Barvor back to the eye clinic for a check up. His eyes have not changed. He will have to remain on eye drops for the rest of his life. Under any circumstances this would be a horrible diagnosis for a 7 year old. No child wants to be different. The fact that Barvor lives in an orphanage in Liberia complicates things even more. The medication is available here and by American standards not too expensive. However, it can be difficult for the the orphanage staff to obtain it and spend the money on medicine for one child instead of food for all the children in the home. Barvor is a sweet and shy boy. He tends to hide towards the back of the pack, but is quick to respond to a smile or a hug. I am working with the caregivers at his home, trying to impress upon them the importance of following through with Barvor's eye care. Please join me in praying for this precious, gentle boy.

Spirit Liberia

A couple of weeks ago Andrew and I met with and were able to show Vanessa from Spirit Liberia what ORR is doing in a few of the orphanage homes we work with. Follow the link to their blog for a few pictures and her take on ORR. (specifically the 3/10/09 and 3/14/09 postings.)

spiritliberia.blogspot.com.

FYI in the 3/10 post Denise is me. :-)

5 months of rice and sun.

March marks 5 months that I have been in Liberia. That is 5 months of eating rice and spice, soaking in the sun, sweating like a pig, living with no running water and only a few hours of electricity each day and loving on some really great kids. And believe it or not, I would not change a minute of it!

I was looking at some pictures from when I first arrived in October and was amazed at the changes I noticed. In both the pictures below I am holding the same boy, (Mulbah who has also changed in the last 5 months).

This is like one of those games in a child's magazine when you count the differences between the 2 pictures.

Mulbah and I in October

Mulbah and I last week.

When my friend Cramer saw these pics he said "Man, Deb you are dropping the LB's in the L-I-B!"

I will be buying my ticket home this week. At this point my plan is to head home in early May and then return to Liberia in September. Thanks to everyone for all the support, encouragement and prayers over the last 5 months.